STOP MAKING THESE MISTAKES IN MENSWEAR
Would you do something incorrectly, just because everyone else does it wrong and you’re conscious of “fitting in” rather than standing out? Most sane humans would say they would take the path less trodden and do the right thing even if it means breaking the status quo.
Astonishing then, that it is so easy to dress with impeccable taste by not making the same mistakes that most men make simply by zigging when others zag. These are three of the biggest mistakes men make in menswear which prevent the glory of style from falling nonchalantly into your grasp.
You’re trying to be too perfect.
The Windsor knot. The matching pocket square and tie. Every button on your jacket fastened.
They are all making you look like you cannot embrace chaos, and that my little neat freak, puts you in a very dangerous position. Have you ever heard that if you want to make god laugh you should tell him of your plans? We have a tendency to want to organise everything into little tidy boxes, fold every line perfectly and have everything in an atomic degree of order. We believe that this is somehow holy, when in fact it encourages us to fight the natural order of things. Beauty is imperfect. Elegance doesn’t care about order.
Here are a few starting points for touches of elegance:
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The four in hand knot is a slim, imbalanced knot which looks relaxed and at ease. A Windsor knot looks like it is about to give a pandemic briefing.
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A matching pocket square and tie suggests you have a uniform someone has instructed, and you are at their service. A mismatch but complimenting set of accessories is playful, considered, purposeful.
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All of your buttons fastened is guarded, like the heating isn’t turned up high enough or you’re ashamed as though you don’t want anyone to see the real you. Always leave your bottom button unfastened, it is welcoming, casual, flowing and actually plays to the structure of how your clothes are cut today.
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ALWAYS check your tailoring for tac stitches on your vents and cuffs, these are to keep your garment together in the ateliers, not a style choice.
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Of course the details show people the texture of your style, but just as with a game of tennis, it gets much better when you relax. It’s important to have a handle on what will make you look well put together, a neatly tucked in shirt, jacket free of lint, but imperfections are human. It’s important to remember that “smart” is for the office, and style is for the streets.
You need to spend more time getting the trousers right
The trouser is the workhorse of your outfit. While a coat, jacket, overshirt, sweater or cardigan may be the last thing you put on, the trousers are (hopefully) the one thing that won’t come off at a function. Firstly, there are no limits to the number of trousers I would advise you acquire. Changing a tee but wearing the same trousers doesn’t feel like that much of a switch up, but introducing a new trouser to a white tee can create an entirely new look.
TAILORING YOUR TROUSER IS A WILDLY UNDERRATED MOVE TO ELEVATE YOUR STYLE
Follow these points for tailoring nirvana:
Width:
Trends are worth paying attention to regarding the width of your strides, but it will never be the case that a tapered, slim cut trouser will not feel refined. Taper from the knee to the ankle, but do not allow the trouser to become tight to your ankle. Consider having the thigh tailored, if you are in the habit of skipping leg days, but leave room for… ventilation. If anything focus on the seat of your trouser to manage how much excess fabric disturbs the drape. Keep it taut, but comfortable. Sit down in any trouser before you purchase them and make sure they do not feel restrictive.
Length:
For the length of your trouser, find your preference. I would always insist that during the colder days of winter and autumn, the end of your trouser should have you covered. A “shivering break” (where your trousers just kiss the upper of your shoe) should be your maximum length in a tailored trouser, and in summer, feel free to have an extra inch taken up, but do not go overboard, one of the most common “icks” in fashion (certainly from a woman’s perspective apparently) is cropped trousers.
The Rise:
The rise of your trouser appears to be the final hurdle for most men when it comes to tailoring trousers. I cannot stress enough that tailored trousers should sit above your hips, resting at the waist. Men have a wild aversion to this, but there are serious pros to a considerably higher rise.
A flatter stomach
Broader chest
Longer legs
Will possibly take your dog for a walk and calculate your taxes for you
A higher rise trouser also looks very chic without a jacket, meaning you have the flexibility to layer up and down at events without diminishing your credit. Consider the trouser to be a major key to unlocking your style enlightenment.
Compromising for no one
There are endless guides that will tell you not to clash certain patterns, people that will tell you not to be too overdressed, that ties make you look old. When it comes to effortless style, you are at your will to disregard any rule or restriction if you can make it work, and if it works for you. Some of the most chic men are able to wear checks, stripes and prints in the same outfits and create cohesion. There are almost no occasions that I believe you can be overdressed for. Ralph Lauren campaigns are a single handed manifesto for old money luxury on young people, in fact sometimes great style is a missed opportunity of youth.
TRUE LUXURY DOESN’T FEAR JUDGEMENT
Style is the reserve of people who own their look with effortless abandon. The more you are able to find ways of owning something, the more it becomes you, and there is truly nothing more chic than a clear sense of your own identity.
